If you are wondering what to eat in Toulouse, the short answer is: a lot, and mostly with duck. I was, born and bread near Toulouse and moved back to the Pink City (after living 10 years in London) since 2020, and food is one of the best ways to understand the place. The cuisine here is generous, rooted in the South West, and made for long lunches and slow dinners.
Here are 10 local dishes to try, with the addresses I would send you to.
Cassoulet (of course!)
If you only eat one thing in Toulouse, make it a cassoulet. This slow-cooked white bean stew is made with Toulouse sausage and confit duck, and it is rich, comforting and very much a dish to share. Come hungry and do not plan anything demanding afterwards or you might regret it!
Where to try it: Le Bibent, on Place du Capitole. It is a beautiful 1861 brasserie in Napoleon III style, and a perfect setting for a proper Toulouse meal. If you want a second address, Chez Émile on Place Saint-Georges has been a cassoulet institution since 1947.
Magret de canard
Magret is seared duck breast, served pink and often with a simple sauce or seasonal vegetables. It is one of the great dishes of the South West, and a good choice if cassoulet feels too heavy.
Where to try it: Le J’Go, on Place Victor Hugo (see main picture). This South West bistro and wine bar has a terrace facing the market, which makes it a lovely spot for lunch.
Saucisse de Toulouse
The Toulouse sausage has been the city’s butchers’ signature since at least the 16th century. It is made from coarsely chopped pork shoulder, seasoned simply with salt, pepper, garlic and a touch of white wine, and it is sold coiled in a long spiral.
Where to try it: grilled with white beans at Le J’Go, or at L’Aubrac, which serves it fried or braised. To cook it yourself, buy it from a butcher at Marché Victor Hugo.
Foie gras
Foie gras is a cornerstone of South West gastronomy, and you will find it on many local menus, usually served as a starter with toast and something sweet. It is also one of the most popular things to bring home.
Where to try it: Chez Émile serves a house foie gras. To buy some, head to Marché Victor Hugo, ideally on a Saturday, when the market is at its fullest and the choice is widest.
Confit de canard
Duck legs slowly cooked in their own fat until the meat is meltingly tender and the skin turns crisp. It is a staple of home cooking here, and the backbone of cassoulet.
Where to try it: on the menu at Chez Émile, or buy jars of it at Marché Victor Hugo as a souvenir that travels well.
Aligot
Technically, aligot comes from the Aubrac plateau in Aveyron, not from Toulouse itself, but it has been fully adopted by the city. It is a silky mash of potatoes and fresh tomme cheese, stretched until it falls in long, glossy ribbons. It was originally served to pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, and it still feels like the ultimate comfort food.
Where to try it: Aligot Bar, 35 rue du Taur, a casual spot where aligot is served with a Toulouse sausage (around 12 euros at the time of writing). For something a bit more of an occasion, try Ligot, 14 Place Saint-Georges, an Aveyron bistro with a lovely terrace.
Violette de Toulouse
Toulouse has a sweet side, and it is purple. The violet has been the emblem of the city since the 19th century, and you will find it in candies, chocolates, biscuits, liqueurs and even perfume. According to the legend, a soldier brought a violet back from Parma around 1850, and the flower took root in Toulouse. It blooms in winter, which makes it a lovely seasonal treat.
Where to try it: La Maison de la Violette, a floating shop on a barge on the Canal du Midi, facing 3 boulevard de Bonrepos. It is open Tuesday to Saturday (10am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 7pm) and closed on Sunday and Monday. You can taste before you buy.
Croustade aux pommes
A classic of South West pâtisserie: very thin, crisp layers of pastry wrapped around apples, often scented with Armagnac. It is rustic, elegant and perfect with a coffee.
Where to try it: Try it at most local boulangeries but the one at Pêché mignon, a well known boulangerie, is highly recommended.
A South West cheese board
South West France has a wonderful cheese tradition, from Roquefort to Rocamadour. A cheese board is an easy, light way to end a meal, or to make a meal in itself.
Where to try it: Le Comptoir de Mathilde, near Capitole, a small all-day counter for cheese boards.
Practical tips for eating in Toulouse
- Lunch is usually served from around noon to 2pm, and dinner from around 7pm. Many kitchens close in between, so check opening hours before you go.
- Book ahead for dinner, especially on Friday and Saturday, and for popular spots like Le Bibent.
- Marché Victor Hugo is best visited in the morning. Saturday is the busiest and most atmospheric day.
- Opening times and prices change, so it is worth double-checking before you head out.
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